cstroke wrote: Mon Sep 19, 2022 6:15 am
Joe, License plates and stuff you are removing paint and powdercoating from can be a cheaper laser..
I have a Boss laser, hp series that is supposed to cut thin metal.. I haven't used that option yet...
If you are on facebook find the boss owners group and from there they have a sellers group.. Some great deals on used machines..
Kern from doing research is probably the best option with cutting metal as opposed to epillog or trotec...(Higher end Co2 lasers)
Boss is a chinese laser with American support..I'm not sure eppilog and trotec aren't imported as well...
Like anything it's tough to get one machine to be good at cutting and engraving.
Lightburn is a program that comes with the Boss and it works very good. I'm using it to export dxf files sometimes now..
I believe I will quickly run up against the limitations of this machine. Still, it is fun, and if I can do nothing more than sell custom gun cases with it, then the investment was still worth the money.
Joe
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Etching in stone is amazing isn't it???
I'm sure pictures don't do that justice..
There's a cleaner that is fairly cheap called L.A. Awesome( I think they actually sell it in dollar stores) It cleans up lots of laser stuff.
I use it for cleaning up powdercoat residue and even some leather stuff..
Try some leather, the ideal stuff to use isn't already dyed but it will engrave dyed..
Slate coasters work great too the finish is really cool...
Joe Jones wrote: Tue Sep 20, 2022 10:02 pm
Now I want to see if this will cut 1/2" black Sintra Board.
Joe
"Sintra® is a lightweight yet rigid board of moderately expanded closed-cell polyvinyl chloride (PVC) extruded in a homogenous sheet with a low gloss matte finish."
Robert Johnson
PlasmaCAM GURU & Instructor I am not affiliated with PlasmaCAM, Inc. in any way. I offer training on their equipment and software. All product and company names are trademarks™ or registered® trademarks of their respective holders. Use of them are for nominative purposes only and does not imply any affiliation with or endorsement by them.
Joe Jones wrote: Tue Sep 20, 2022 10:02 pm
Now I want to see if this will cut 1/2" black Sintra Board.
Joe
"Sintra® is a lightweight yet rigid board of moderately expanded closed-cell polyvinyl chloride (PVC) extruded in a homogenous sheet with a low gloss matte finish."
Do you think his machine will cut this material?
David
sonbakler wrote: Wed Sep 21, 2022 8:37 pm
Thats awesome Joe! So Was the entire plate black to start and the laser burned off what you didnt want or did it add the black to the plate?
The plate is black anodized on one side, and white on the other. I burned off the black to expose the aluminum.
I have 200 black matte finish aluminum plates arriving tomorrow. I can't wait to see what those will look like when etched with the laser.
Joe
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Two hobby shops (9,790 sq. ft.) full of machines and tools
You are correct. Aerosolized hydrochloric acid couldn't care less about being inside, outside, or being blown around with little a fan. It will condense on surfaces and it will rapidly oxidize any ferric surface. Effects might be mitigated but I doubt eliminated.
Robert Johnson
PlasmaCAM GURU & Instructor I am not affiliated with PlasmaCAM, Inc. in any way. I offer training on their equipment and software. All product and company names are trademarks™ or registered® trademarks of their respective holders. Use of them are for nominative purposes only and does not imply any affiliation with or endorsement by them.
Joe Jones wrote: Tue Sep 20, 2022 10:02 pm
Now I want to see if this will cut 1/2" black Sintra Board.
Joe
"Sintra® is a lightweight yet rigid board of moderately expanded closed-cell polyvinyl chloride (PVC) extruded in a homogenous sheet with a low gloss matte finish."
Do you think his machine will cut this material?
David
I'm not sure. I have never used a diode laser. Plastics have to cut with enough power to vaporize and not melt the material. My 80 watt CO2 will cut 4mm corrugated plastic sheet (Coroplast) easy enough but I have to use high power and move reasonably quickly to not scorch or melt the edges.
Robert Johnson
PlasmaCAM GURU & Instructor I am not affiliated with PlasmaCAM, Inc. in any way. I offer training on their equipment and software. All product and company names are trademarks™ or registered® trademarks of their respective holders. Use of them are for nominative purposes only and does not imply any affiliation with or endorsement by them.
When lasering true anodized aluminum, the goal is to vaporize the ink from the oxide layer. Aluminum does not absorb dye but since anodizing is just chemically/electrically increasing the thickness of the oxidized layer - that layer absorbs the dye. Moving quickly with the fiber laser is dramatically faster at this process over a CO2 or diode laser. I've made adjustments to the hatch and have sped the process up even further since this video was taken.
Robert Johnson
PlasmaCAM GURU & Instructor I am not affiliated with PlasmaCAM, Inc. in any way. I offer training on their equipment and software. All product and company names are trademarks™ or registered® trademarks of their respective holders. Use of them are for nominative purposes only and does not imply any affiliation with or endorsement by them.
rdj357 wrote: Thu Sep 22, 2022 9:23 am
When lasering true anodized aluminum, the goal is to vaporize the ink from the oxide layer. Aluminum does not absorb dye but since anodizing is just chemically/electrically increasing the thickness of the oxidized layer - that layer absorbs the dye. Moving quickly with the fiber laser is dramatically faster at this process over a CO2 or diode laser. I've made adjustments to the hatch and have sped the process up even further since this video was taken.
I will have to experiment with my 30W galvo fiber laser on these plates, to see what the difference is. The blue diode laser does a nice job, but it is painfully slow.
Joe
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Two hobby shops (9,790 sq. ft.) full of machines and tools
rdj357 wrote: Thu Sep 22, 2022 9:23 am
When lasering true anodized aluminum, the goal is to vaporize the ink from the oxide layer. Aluminum does not absorb dye but since anodizing is just chemically/electrically increasing the thickness of the oxidized layer - that layer absorbs the dye. Moving quickly with the fiber laser is dramatically faster at this process over a CO2 or diode laser. I've made adjustments to the hatch and have sped the process up even further since this video was taken.
Nice... Could you post the details of the fiber laser you have??
TIA..