jason.jason.p wrote:Apparently lots of guys are getting those dies, putting them in the lathe and shaping them to just about any size/shape they want with excellent results ....man I wish I had a lathe
So I was driving by HF the other day and stopped in to get a set of these dies. I opened them up to take 1" stock and went to town on some 3/4x1" bar stock!
VPT have you had any trouble with the set screws that hold the top die to the shaft? Mine seem to get loose after just a few revolutions. I spend more time tightening set screws than I do rolling material. I'm tempted to drill through and install roll pins.
jason.jason.p wrote:VPT have you had any trouble with the set screws that hold the top die to the shaft? Mine seem to get loose after just a few revolutions. I spend more time tightening set screws than I do rolling material. I'm tempted to drill through and install roll pins.
Could I suggest that you drill a hole into the shaft and use a setscrew with a dog point. This will hold your roller in place.
Setscrew with dog point.JPG
Larry
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Thats kind of what I did. I drilled out the small set screw holes HF has in the dies, tapped them, and inserted the next size bigger bolts with tips like shown and also of a grade 10.
The main reason the stock screws constantly need tightening is because the ends keep getting sheared off when you turn heavy.
I machine a flat on the shaft so the set screw has a flat ( more surface area) to grab onto... If it does distort at all, the die won't get stuck on the shaft where the screw "bit" into the shaft. Got the idea from end mill holders...
6x12 Home Built Table
Hypertherm PowerMax 85
CandCNC Dragon Cut 620 DTHC IV
CorelDraw X7, Sheetcam, Mach 3
"Better to attempt great things and fail than to live in the gray twilight where there is neither victory or defeat"
Not at all... If you look at the very first video I posted of the roller I made I believe it was several months before the Hulk hit the market. I don't really call it my roller, because it's pretty much a combination of a lot of files that were posted on here at the time.. All I did was combine what was posted and refined it a bit. Truth is at the time they were so labor intensive because of my limited ability to make the top carrier with the correct sized holes for the bearings that I pretty much gave up on making them.
Now I'm doing this more as a hobby and really getting into blacksmithing more & more, so I don't really sell much metal art any more... The day job is a huge grind, but only a few years left before I can get back to being in the shop full time to make stuff for the grandkids!
6x12 Home Built Table
Hypertherm PowerMax 85
CandCNC Dragon Cut 620 DTHC IV
CorelDraw X7, Sheetcam, Mach 3
"Better to attempt great things and fail than to live in the gray twilight where there is neither victory or defeat"
Oldsarge wrote:
Now I'm doing this more as a hobby and really getting into blacksmithing more & more, so I don't really sell much metal art any more... The day job is a huge grind, but only a few years left before I can get back to being in the shop full time to make stuff for the grandkids!
We all got into this Plasma Table thing in different ways. I just wanted to mention that OldSarge's videos are definitely a big part of how I got started and stuck with the process of building my own table. I then closely followed a bunch of your subsequent projects like this one. Here's hoping you continue to be able to do whatever it is that keeps you excited about life; Grandkids, Blacksmithing, etc.
jason.jason.p wrote:VPT have you had any trouble with the set screws that hold the top die to the shaft? Mine seem to get loose after just a few revolutions. I spend more time tightening set screws than I do rolling material. I'm tempted to drill through and install roll pins.
Could I suggest that you drill a hole into the shaft and use a setscrew with a dog point. This will hold your roller in place.
Oldsarge wrote:I machine a flat on the shaft so the set screw has a flat ( more surface area) to grab onto... If it does distort at all, the die won't get stuck on the shaft where the screw "bit" into the shaft. Got the idea from end mill holders...
The HF shafts already have flats on them where the set screws make contact. Interestingly too the shafts seem to be hardened as the shaft itself doesn't seem to get marred ever but the screws would always get mushroomed over or nearly sheared off.
I don't think I will need anything better than the over sized better grade set screws I am using now. I think the 3/4x1' bar will probably be the heaviest I ever roll in mine. At least until "that job" comes up that I need to roll something heavier. lol
Oldsarge wrote:Was digging through my files & found this.
This is the final file I used to make the last several rollers. The sides connect using 1/2" I.D. DOM tube and 1/2" bolts. The tabs weld into the slots at the bottom for attaching to a bench.
The most difficult part of making your own roller is the carriage for the bearings. It should be 1/2" minimum thickness, and has to be very accurate or it will show in the accuracy of the rolled goods. If you have an old Harbor freight roller you can rob the carriage from that & save a lot of time.
The other tabs are for the spring return on the jack plate... If you look at the video I posted earlier in the thread you can pretty much see how it all goes together.
Happy Rolling!
Oldsarge
Thanks for this! What thickness did you use for sides ?
i built one simular to urs and added a 2 hp electric motor and 15 to 1 gear reduction and it really works great we rolled a 25 foot 1 in sq tube made a perfect circle
This little roller works great .Youse 1in hot roll with a 3in top roller with a 28 in wheel and you won’t have to work as hard .have fun the bearings were on line for less than 50 dollars my students had fun with it
HI All
I know tis is a long dead post, but been looking for a new toy for mancave, dose any one have the files /plans for OLDSARGE's Ring roller please?