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corner speeds

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btburn
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corner speeds

Post by btburn » Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:24 pm

Anyone mess with the corner speed settings? I tend to get lumps of dross on fine details and small radii.
Haven't fooled much with it. I have a 4x4 super bee.
Dynatorch 4x4 SuperBee, Powermax 65, Quincy QT-54, Snap On MM250SL, Thermal Arc Arcmaster 185, Corel Draw X7 and a messy garage.

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CNCCAJUN
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Re: corner speeds

Post by CNCCAJUN » Wed Nov 05, 2014 12:44 am

The below is my 2 cents from my limited experience.

I think on this intricate artsy stuff we all get dross to some extent.

The question is, are you getting the type of dross that easily removed or the kind that requires a lot of work to remove.

I am pretty much wore out on chasing the "dross free" cut on files like the Tree Of Life.

I have run the Hypertherm test file 25+ times, different gauge material, different speeds, different settings.

It is pretty simple, as Jim Colt says . . . FOLLOW THE CUT CHARTS IN THE MANUAL . . . .It works . . . it is almost dross free every time, but it is not the "TREE OF LIFE" file.

Yes you can tweak and adjust speed, acceleration, etc. . and reduce the dross, but it will usually just create other problems.

Some people go in and adjust their speed to treat sharp corners like straight cuts. Yep, that will eliminate a lot of dross.

But now you have overshoots on corners & even small contours. Then you hear, "well just make loops" . . . try fitting a loop on some of this artsy stuff. Heck I do good to fit an occasional leadin.

You also are racking the crap out of your table in the name of reduced dross.

I would far rather remove dross created on a solid accurate table than live with a ragged out table.

You have to realize these plasma table builders are shooting for ACCURACY . . . you have a 3" circle drawing, they want a 3" circle cut.

These plasma table makers have spent 100s of hours of testing to make a $10,000.00 table cut as accurately as the big iron does.

If you could have an accurate cutting idiot proof, no thinking required, dross free operation for $10,000.00 all the big iron would disappear in the morning.

Watch the videos from FX for prepping a cut piece. I would rather buy some 36 grit disc than servo motors, gear reducers, rack and pinon gears, etc . . .
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Re: corner speeds

Post by TMC » Thu Nov 06, 2014 8:54 am

btburn, I have been messing with corner speeds lately and have definitely improved my cuts. With that said I'm still trying to dial in the thin ga. stuff. my machine came with the corner speed set at 20%. I had found moving the corner speed back up to around 90% my dross on corners cleaned up quite a bit but then I started having problems with what I will call overshooting in the corner. It would over extend the cut in the corner and then squiggle for about 3/16" after the corner. right now I'm sitting at 57% on my corner speeds for 1/8" and 14ga. For me it was a compromise for cut quality and dross. (45 amp Fine Cut Consumables)Still searching for better settings at this point.
Have you made any changes and been happy with them?
Kevin
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CNCCAJUN
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Re: corner speeds

Post by CNCCAJUN » Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:51 am

As you can tell from my previous post I'm a little frustrated with hunting the ever elusive "DROSS FREE CUT".

My machine also is set at 20% of cut speed for corners. Also have found that when cutting with no leadins, using contours I can eliminate that little oversize start point by lowering or eliminating the pierce delay on 16 gauge.

I would think you guys with the SuperB can run a little faster than I can.

You said 57% is a good compromise, are you getting very little dross?

I'm going to quiz Leon & Russell next week at the FABTECH show.

Like I said, I know they build & tune these tables with accuracy in mind. . . i.e. parts cutting . . . but the truth is most of us buying these machines want to do artsy stuff . . .

Steve
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Re: corner speeds

Post by TMC » Thu Nov 06, 2014 10:00 pm

When you see Leon at Fabtech let them know we have this forum for Dynatorch going and see if they would monitor it and join us in conversation . I never see them involved in any forums.
As to your dross questin, on larger pieces or parts I can get cuts with very little or no dross (in places), but I do a lot of the wall artsy thin ga. Stuff with a lot of nooks and crannys and just can't get it as clean as I believe it could be. Can you make a two sided piece?
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CNCCAJUN
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Re: corner speeds

Post by CNCCAJUN » Fri Nov 07, 2014 1:04 am

TMC wrote:When you see Leon at Fabtech let them know we have this forum for Dynatorch going and see if they would monitor it and join us in conversation . I never see them involved in any forums.
As to your dross questin, on larger pieces or parts I can get cuts with very little or no dross (in places), but I do a lot of the wall artsy thin ga. Stuff with a lot of nooks and crannys and just can't get it as clean as I believe it could be. Can you make a two sided piece?
Two side piece, not sure what you mean?

OK, here is a crazy idea . . .since I have a down draft system that does eliminate ALL smoke . . . what would happen if I coated the back of my material with a light anti splatter or WD40 before cutting. I'm talking wipe on with rag . . .

Steve
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AnotherDano
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Re: corner speeds

Post by AnotherDano » Fri Nov 07, 2014 1:34 am

CNCCAJUN wrote:
Two side piece, not sure what you mean?

OK, here is a crazy idea . . .since I have a down draft system that does eliminate ALL smoke . . . what would happen if I coated the back of my material with a light anti splatter or WD40 before cutting. I'm talking wipe on with rag . . .

Steve
Not crazy at all, Steve. I've been doing that for years.

NOT WD40, especially if you have any painting or Powder Coating going on anywhere near. That stuff lingers forever and will result in pinholes in your finish.

Anti splatter spray works, as does PAM - and you can swipe that stuff from the kitchen. Your wife may not even miss it and just go out for more. :roll: Just a light spray will do the trick. And no,,, your shop won't smell like popcorn. Cooking oil spray will wash off with Green Dawn or denatured alcohol.

If what you're cutting has an obvious front and back, like anything with words, Don't be as concerned with the back side as with the front. I still get customers who expect the back side to be flawless as the front. Like,,, Who will ever see it! But the reversible signs should have equal attention to both sides. The customer may want the 'elk' facing one way for a while, then move the piece to another location and want it facing the other way.
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