Krystal - with your 1:3 or 1:4 acid/water mix - how long do you typically soak your parts for complete removal of dross? By the way, I cleaned some bare metal on a 1932 Ford coupe body last year using muriatic acid/water mix. I rinsed after the cleaning with water and everything looked good. But when I came out the next day to take a look, everything had turned brown with surface rust. If I knew what I know now, I should have used baking soda or equivalent to neutralize the acid. Oh well!Splinters&Sparx wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 9:23 amStill waiting for tool recommendations j/k
To put my 2 cents in regarding acid baths, I have been using this method for about 6 mos now. What I have learned is it does not have to be a 50:50 ratio and matter of fact it is kind of a waste of acid and money to mix it that strong. I use approx a 1:3, 1:4 ratio using a large plastic tote (for now) I have had the same water in the tub the whole time and when I notice the parts are taking longer to clean I just dump some more acid. I also read it isn't necessary to neutralize the part after an acid bath because once rinsed there is no longer acid, Bill from Steel FX has a great post about this. I am kind of questioning this after reading this thread because after rinsing the steel I have to immediately dry it to keep it from getting a surface rust and a patina look.
Here is the thread with Bill's input
Also I have tried the vinegar bath, it took about 24 hrs to clean a piece that the acid does in 20-30 minutes.
Have a great week
By the way, if you would care to post some photos of the parts with the small letters/designs - I think we could probably give better advise on perhaps what tool or tools might be used for cleaning/deburring.