Easel

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DXF
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Easel

Post by DXF »

Made this simple easel out of scrap lumber I had. Fold it up and lean against the wall when done. Make the bottom edge about 42" high so it's at eye level. Works great.

Dave Hanks

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CNCCAJUN
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Re: Easel

Post by CNCCAJUN »

Neat idea . . . will be making one tomorrow . . . . :D

I think I might want to add some small holes drilled at a slight downward angle that will allow a #6 or #8 finish nails to be placed where needed to suspend the work so I don't get the collection at the bottom.

Looks great . . . I know that is a gun and not rattle can . . . :)

Thanks.
Steve
Last edited by CNCCAJUN on Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Smiling Gator Metal Works, LLC
Dynatorch 4X4 XLS
PowerMAX 85
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
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acourtjester
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Re: Easel

Post by acourtjester »

Ok I'm going to ask
It looks like you welded nuts on the back of the front part then used real short button heads to attached the back.
If that what you did how do you locate the holes in the back part???? :?
This seems to give it more depth looks great thanks for sharing
DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
DXF
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Re: Easel

Post by DXF »

acourtjester wrote:Ok I'm going to ask
It looks like you welded nuts on the back of the front part then used real short button heads to attached the back.
If that what you did how do you locate the holes in the back part???? :?
This seems to give it more depth looks great thanks for sharing
I use 10-32 stainless steel nuts and button head screws .187" long. Design the parts in (2) layers. The nuts measure about .400" across the points. Draw a .400" dia. circle with a .200" circle centered inside it and use it to locate the nuts where you have clearance to weld the nuts then delete the .400" diameter circles. Cut .200" diameter holes in the back pieces then drill them out to .218" diameter. Make the back pieces a little bigger then the front - about .100" or so all around. Mark the backside of the front with small lines about .100" outside the cuts all around where the back pieces will go. Lay the back pieces on the front piece and mark the holes with a Sharpie ultra fine point marker. Locate the nuts so you can place tig tack welds (very small welds) on (2) opposite corners. I use needle nose vise grips to hold them while welding. After tacking the nuts on I run a (4) flute flat bottom tap thru them because welding will cause the threads to shrink a bit. Works great. And yes, Steve, the paint is rattle cans.

Dave Hanks
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CNCCAJUN
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Re: Easel

Post by CNCCAJUN »

Dave the paint looks great as does all your work.

If I may ask, is most of your work custom?

I see how much work you put into a project and I can not imagine all that work and hoping for the right customer.

And also, thanks for all your contributions . . . and the high bar to aim for . . . :D

Steve
Smiling Gator Metal Works, LLC
Dynatorch 4X4 XLS
PowerMAX 85
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
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acourtjester
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Re: Easel

Post by acourtjester »

Thanks for the description of the nut mounting file that away for future use.
DIY 4X4 Plasma/Router Table
Hypertherm PM65 Machine Torch
Drag Knife and Scribe
Miller Mig welder
13" metal lathe
Small Mill
Everlast PowerTig 255 EXT
DXF
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Re: Easel

Post by DXF »

CNCCAJUN wrote:Dave the paint looks great as does all your work.

If I may ask, is most of your work custom?

I see how much work you put into a project and I can not imagine all that work and hoping for the right customer.

And also, thanks for all your contributions . . . and the high bar to aim for . . . :D

Steve
I do very little custom work because I end up losing $. Don't figure in the time involved in designing, each design is a project that I can call up with a click when done.

Dave
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