What happened to this?

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comeoutswingin
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What happened to this?

Post by comeoutswingin »

I did this cut out for my parents, colored it was steelfx copper fx and torch patina.. then clear powdercoated it with an outdoor ok powdercoat...

I did this about 6 months ago.. and checked on it today and went... uh... hmm..

My first thought was the powdercoat flaked off... but after looking closer and feeling it, it was fully intact and not even oxidized..

So did the sun just bleach this thing out or what? The white spots is hard water spots

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This is my usual results with everything used being the same..

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5x10 LDR
abmetal
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Re: What happened to this?

Post by abmetal »

It looks like basically the same problem I have. I use automotive clearcoat paying great attention to coating the edges of the cut areas but still after about a year in the weather discoloration and rusting start to appear. I wish there was a way to dip them in some type of clearcoat solution that would ensure 100% coverage, then apply the final clearcoat. In this area of high humidity, it's a problem.

Allen
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acourtjester
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Re: What happened to this?

Post by acourtjester »

Have you tried to treat the metal with a product like Ospho
http://www.ospho.com/ Not sure if it is compatible with patina products.
maybe use Ospho first dry over night and treat with patina products.
I have used this stuff before painting metal and it seems to really help long term.
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steelfx
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Re: What happened to this?

Post by steelfx »

acourtjester wrote:Have you tried to treat the metal with a product like Ospho
http://www.ospho.com/ Not sure if it is compatible with patina products.
maybe use Ospho first dry over night and treat with patina products.
I have used this stuff before painting metal and it seems to really help long term.
Hi Guys!

Ospho is for bare metal treatment/etching, prior to applying primer or base-coat. It's a similar composition to the
Grime Git'r? that I was making for a while. Grime Git'r ? was strong enough to clean, etch, remove oil, even mill-scale!

I may re-introduce it, but I was selling it at about $5.00 per gallon more than it cost me to get it out the door & not many folks ordered it.

Great products for steel prep PRIOR to flap-discing.

To the question at hand by comeoutswingin: Delamination. Video 3 of 3 in the 'Heroes of the Alamo' Video Series shows how I get the best film thickness on edges and corners, which greatly reduces the chance of delamination or the formation of rust.

Here's a Link: http://youtu.be/s29swwaMuRo?list=PL8A9K ... qxz11yLB1x
The Video is only 5:30 long, but it might shed some light on the importance of hitting the edges, as they are the weakest link in the chain, so to speak.

Clear-Coating Plasma-Cut Steel Art. Video 3 of 3. Shooting High-Velocity, Ultra-Clear Topcoat (Clearcoat).
PPG DELTRON DC3000 on Bare Steel that has been patina'd (patinated) using STEEL F/X? Patinas.


The Video will show how I pay special attention to the edges & corners. I make it a habit to go over the whole piece, front - back - and edges with a Lint-Free TopCoat rated Tack Rag BEFORE PC Clear or 2-Stage Clear-Coating.
https://steelfxpatinas.com/shop/supplie ... ack-cloth/


Patinas for Steel are Basically Chemically Reactive, Controlled Corrosion.

After the patina process is complete & dried, a small amount of haze, smut or flash-rust will develop, sometimes in minutes, sometimes it takes several hours or days.

My eyes are gettin' old, but even with young 20/20 eyes, you & I can't see the powdery contaminant/s on a piece of steel art (or any other plasma-cut steel) that is ready for clear-coat. And, any powdery substance on the substrate is, in effect, a Release Agent for the Top-Coat. Kinda like flour on a cookie sheet.

You need the tightest bond possible between the top-coat and substrate for the greatest longevity of the piece.

So far, *knock on wood*...I haven't had one single call or returned item due to delamination. Hope that helps.

If you have any questions, please let me know. bill@steelf-x.com

Bill

p.s. Ask Mike (oldsarge) about his PC finishes. I am not a PC expert, but I do know that there are many levels of quality and gloss factor in PC clears. Mike would have great input on this. His pieces that have been Clear PC'd, are Second to None!

bw
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