16 gauge metal warping problems

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jsw621
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16 gauge metal warping problems

Post by jsw621 »

Having some trouble cutting initials out of 16 gauge metal. As the letter is cut the metal starts curving up getting in way of torch. Any suggestions?
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JJsCustomDesigns
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by JJsCustomDesigns »

If you could give us some idea of what system your running (plasmacam-torchmate-trucut..etc) And what plasma cutter you are using. There are tons of people here that can assist you.
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Im on the prowl for a good used Hypertherm Plasma with hand torch.
PM me with details
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by jsw621 »

Hypotherm 45 plasma cutter
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by jsw621 »

Burns table system. Sheet CAM
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Gamelord
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by Gamelord »

This happens whenever you cut thin gauge metal. Do you have a ATHC (Automatic Torch Height Control)? If not, you now know the reason they should be standard equipment on all tables. This will fix your problem. Another option, if you have space, you can place heavy weights on your plate to hold it down while it cuts (I use scrap cut-outs of 3/4" steel), just make sure the pieces are not going to interfere with your cut/design, or will be hit by the torch as it moves. Sometimes I will use a steel rod to hold the metal down to the table while it cuts, I only need to do this if the plate is warped where the tip is going to pierce the table and mess up the pierce; torch comes down, references on the plate for the height control, the plate rebounds back upwards and touches the torch screwing up the pierce. Once the pierce goes through the THC will start to compensate for the warpage and I don't have to hold it down anymore.

Hope this helps.
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by muzza »

Majority of the stuff I cut is light gauge with about 75% of that being 16 gauge. We used to have that problem all the time with the Plasmacam table and found the best way to minimize distortion was to reorder the cut path to stagger the cuts all over the place moving from one side to the other to give it more chance to cool down. I then built a water tray and pretty much alleviated the problem as well as most of the dust and smoke but did create a bit of a problem due to the ohmic sensor getting wet.
ATHC also helps where your cutting but doesn't stop collisions when passing over or near an already cut part which has lifted due to distortion which was the main drama I was having on the previous table.
When I built my present table I didn't hesitate to go water tray and with touch and go there is no ohmic sensor issues and I'm currently cutting at least 10 sheets of 16 gauge a week with zero distortion problems.
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ben de lappe
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by ben de lappe »

great answers Murray, Gamelord. I have a torchmate with cutmaster 101. Nearly all of my cuts are 12 ga. material on up . We do cut a good deal of 16 ga. for names and initals, letters and such. My plasma right now is set to 40 amps with a 40 amp tip. On 16 ga. I will run around 165 i.p.m. On 12 ga. I will run around 145 i.p.m. I try not to push my feedrate, this seems to help me alot. I get the feeling this is not the case for everyone. Most of my thinner material cuts mormally do not contain a great deal of intricate detail. thank goodness for my ATHC. My next project is a water table . As mentioned above in this thread I believe this will help.
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Gamelord
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by Gamelord »

I too am running a cutmaster 101 with a torchmate 6x14 table. I find on the thin stuff I cut it as fast as possible, the 101 rips through 14 & 16 gauge like a hot knife through butter. With the thin stuff, the faster you cut it the less it heats up and warps.
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by jimcolt »

The key to eliminating warpage is to cut fast and at the correct cut height. Most of the time when I hear of plate warping as you describe....it is because the operator is simply cutting too slow. Open the Powermax45 manual to the machine torch cut charts.....follow the specs exactly for 45 amp shielded consumables on 16 gauge.....there will be minimal to no warping.

If your machine cannot maintain the speed required on small details....the you should get a set of the 30 amp consumables (they are listed in your Powermax45 manual....and have their own cut charts)....which will allow you to cut slower at lower power levels...again giving good quality with minimal warpage.

Cut height is critical as well. For the 45 amp shielded consumables the cut height is .06" (1/16"). Any higher and you will input more heat in the plate an experience warpage.

I cut 16 gauge often with my Powermax85 using the 45 amp shielded consumables (same process as the Powermax45)...no warpage.

Jim Colt Hypertherm


jsw621 wrote:Having some trouble cutting initials out of 16 gauge metal. As the letter is cut the metal starts curving up getting in way of torch. Any suggestions?
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by jmsrbrt »

ben de lappe wrote: I will run around 165 i.p.m. On 12 ga. I will run around 145 i.p.m.
With a 40 amp tip, my cutting speed on 1/16th is at 400 ipm. I definately think you're cutting too slow. Bob.
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Fountaine
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by Fountaine »

It took a while with the responses for someone to mention 30 amp.

I do not know if your manual has a chart for 30 amp....If not, ask and someone will help with the #s.

I had a hard time getting the #s and I just switched. The cut difference is amazing on 14 and 12 guage. I am sure it will help you.
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by Gamelord »

I have used both 30amp and 40 amp tips, I tend to get the best cut from 40 amp tips. The 30amp tips tend to be slightly better when working with intricate detail cuts. With the 40 amp tip, you can really rock the speed. It cuts so fast I get nervous. Crank up the cut speed and let her rip! I am also using the cutmaster 101, not sure what my IPM is when I cut 16ga, will have to check next time I run some but I know it is faaaaast, it has to be well over 350ipm, probably around 400 to 425 ipm. Run a couple of test cuts on some scrap at 400 ipm and see how that works for you. Many of the cuts I make on 16ga, the machine cuts so fast the metal barely has time to heat up at all. Usually I can pick it up with my bare hands after it cuts.....careful though, the more intricate the cuts, the hotter the metal will get. I don't ever recommend grabbing freshly cut metal with your bare hands. LOL The faster it cuts, the less it warps.

Large sign hung on the wall of the shop:
ALL METAL IN THIS AREA IS EXTREMELY HOT UNLESS IT HAS "COLD" WRITTEN ON IT!!!

Hope that helps.
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Metal Storm
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by Metal Storm »

i dont know how any one managed without a hight control system. my frustration level wud cause me to make a $12k mistake. kudos to the ones who started doing this without one and managed to not smash their equiptment into tiny expensive peices.
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Re: 16 gauge metal

Post by dolanski72 »

I run a multicam 1000 table with a hypertherm powermax 1000 plasma unit. I have a refer air dryer along with a motorguard micron filter for the air supply. For most of my parts i run a hypertherm 220329 nozzel at 25-30 amps power with a feedrate around 120 ipm. the cut quality on black 16 ga is great on galvanized it has some slag. I set my torchheight using a dime...
If the parts are not intricate i use a 60 amp sheilded nozzel and crank the cut speed up to 450ipm
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Re: 16 gauge metal warping problems

Post by tdoe151 »

I tack the edges of the plate to the slats on my table if it runs where the is no slat i tack a piece of angle to it to stop the edges from raising up. I also follow the torch with a rag and squeeze water on the part as it cuts. {i dip it in the water from my table}
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