clear coat delamination

[Cracker Red]

Question for you all applying clear over the dyes from SF/X. I have been doing this for a few weeks now with great results. Today at a show I had a piece tip over and hit the ground. Got several scratches here and there with one spot looking like a "crack" using some decent pressure with my nail the clear and dye delamination from the piece of metal leaving just bare clear steel.

Went over to another piece and was able to rub my nail against it hard enough to pull the clean and dye right off.

This is no good...what am.i doing wrong?

I cut, gring, wash and dry, tack rag, dye, tack rag and clear. Something I'm doing wrong with the prep? I know clear isn't designed to hold up to an impact but I wouldn't think you would be able to just rub the clear and dye off.

To clarify the clear is peeling off attached to the dye...so I don't think this is a clear issue but a dye adhesion issue.?

Forgot to mention these have been cleared over a week ago, but have not really had any sun exposure.

The clear powder pieces have had no issues whatsoever.

[Countrylane]

We've also had issues like this. I believe the dyes are only sprayed on and don't go into the steel at all, they just sit on top. We take our pieces to a powder station and if they're not careful handling them they rub the dye off. The last time I took pieces in I made sure the dye had dried on the pieces for a few days before. I've decided the best way is to have them powder coated. Wonder what Bill from Steel FX has to say? He does lots with clear coat. How long does it take to get them hardened so it doesn't come off.

[Redneck]

We've also had issues like this. I believe the dyes are only sprayed on and don't go into the steel at all, they just sit on top. We take our pieces to a powder station and if they're not careful handling them they rub the dye off. The last time I took pieces in I made sure the dye had dried on the pieces for a few days before. I've decided the best way is to have them powder coated. Wonder what Bill from Steel FX has to say? He does lots with clear coat. How long does it take to get them hardened so it doesn't come off.

I haven't had that problem with the dyes. In fact, I rub them pretty good with a tack rag before I put on the clear powdercoat, so, they don't just sit on top. And I will powdercoat them within an hour or even less usually after I put on the dyes.

If you are having trouble with them coming off, I'd have to wonder if the metal was clean before applying the dyes.
Just my 2?

[Cracker Red]

I do all of my grinding/sanding outside to minimize the dust in the shop. Clean pad/new pad for the front of the piece, I usually use the pad again for the back of the next piece.

Once this is done it's given a spray with the hose, then force dried using the same air I paint with. Latex gloves all the time.

The delamination on these pieces isn't just on the edge where it might have been accidentally touched....it's on the center, side, anywhere.

If I rub my finger nail on the piece hard enough it will lift the clear (and dye) right off the metal. If I keep scratching at it the clear will tear off from the surrounding clear and flake off.

I have a terrible feeling that a few pieces I've done for people will be coming back now.....and I don't need that especially as I'm just getting started.




I've tried, but been unable, to get the clear/dye to come off other things that I have done.

[WyoGreen]

I wonder if there is a chemical reaction between the dye and the clear coat. You might get hold of Bill at Steel F/X and see if he has any ideas.

Steve