Copper Patina

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cfmetalworks
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Copper Patina

Post by cfmetalworks »

Hey guys maybe someone can help me!

Ive been using steel fx copper patina and it starts to turn black like its molding while I'm spraying. Does anyone know what causes this??

Thank you!
METALWORX-IND
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Re: Copper Patina

Post by METALWORX-IND »

The copper fx will do that if you leave it on too long or go over it again after rinsing. It is my experience that you spray a fine mist and rinse just as soon as you finish spraying it on the metal to prevent or reduce the dark spots. It only takes a few seconds for the copper fx to work.
cfmetalworks
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Re: Copper Patina

Post by cfmetalworks »

Thank you Metalworx!

How do you do that if you are finishing a large piece?
METALWORX-IND
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Re: Copper Patina

Post by METALWORX-IND »

I have not done a lot of large pieces with the copper fx yet. Most of mine ore 30 inches or under. This post that is just a few post down this page might help some. I know Bill "steelfx" is on this site often and he would be your best source for information.

viewtopic.php?f=81&t=23610
cfmetalworks
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Re: Copper Patina

Post by cfmetalworks »

Thank you Metaworx!
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steelfx
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Re: Copper Patina

Post by steelfx »

The COPPER F/X™ is in contact with the steel surface a little too long if you're getting black streaks or spots.

Try to limit the time to 10-12 Seconds whenever possible.

And, for any project...horizontal is better than vertical.

Try very hard not to be tempted to 'go over & over' the same areas.

And, this is really helpful: For any piece larger than 5 sq. ft., use the Pump Pressure Sprayer for your COPPER F/X™. The patinas won't hurt the sprayer. Set it to the finest possible mist, give the piece a quick, light, full-coverage mist & neutralize with water immediately.

If more than 10-15 seconds elapse, you will get exactly what's in the photo you sent.

Hope that helps.

If you have any further comments or questions, please let me know.

In the heat of the summer, the dwell time is even more critical, so if you can apply your COPPER F/X™ in the shade or inside the shop, that would minimize the risk of the etchant precipitating & leaving black specks, streaks & spots.

If I reduce the etchant content, the copper plating would wipe off pretty easily, so just know that summer-time means you have to work a little faster between copper application & water neutralization.

I've gotten into the habit of having my water/spray nozzle in one hand & my COPPER F/X™ in the other hand.

One last thing. It doesn't take a LOT of water to neutralize, so quite often, I use the 50 oz. Pressure Pump Sprayer, filled with distilled water (to eliminate water spots), instead of a garden hose & spray nozzle.

If your steel is 5, 6, 7 sq. ft. or larger, don't use the pressure sprayer for rinsing/neutralizing, as it's not fast enough to neutralize that much surface area.


Thanks,

Bill

p.s. Are you rinsing your steel with clean water before applying the COPPER F/X™? And, have you watched my videos on application of COPPER F/X™?
bw
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