Plasma converting to router

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Tipp_BB
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Plasma converting to router

Post by Tipp_BB »

When I bought my table I purchased the wood router option. I have not been successfully in figuring out a way to secure the wood to the water table. Does anyone out there have or know of a way to secure the wood to the water table. Do I need to put down some sort base with a clamping system to hold the wood down secure. If so do you or can you share how you are successfully in doing this.

Thanks
tylerd
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Re: Plasma converting to router

Post by tylerd »

Curious, what table did you buy? Can they provide some support?
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tcaudle
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Re: Plasma converting to router

Post by tcaudle »

You need to design a flat cutting surface with spoil board that covers your water table and have some way to level it if you want to do any cutting that needs controlled depth. You will need to keep the water tray covered unless you want routing debris floating in your tray. Years ago I built a combo router/plasma table and designed slide in trays for water (with drains) and an adjustable frame with MDF spoil board. It took about 45 minutes to change over from one to the other. While its neat for a hobbyist, proto shop or casual user to be able to do routing or plasma its not a great idea for a production shop unless floor space is missing. Separate tables have distinct advantages. Plasma assumes the material is not flat and all cuts are through and through. The THC will adjust for material not flat A router cuts dwon into the media and the depth is based on the material being flat and level. Being off a 1/4" out of level on a plams is not big deal (unless you have no THC) but it is on a router.

Router media needs to be secured to the spoil board and the spoil board needs to not move.
tylerd
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Re: Plasma converting to router

Post by tylerd »

Yeah 2 tables or downdraft I would think would be the way to go
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djreiswig
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Re: Plasma converting to router

Post by djreiswig »

Kinda old thread, but I liked Tom's explanation.
I'm wondering if anyone has mounted a router with a depth guide and used the floating head on the z axis to allow the router to follow the surface and cut a fixed depth. I'm thinking either leave the adjustable base on the router or a fabricate a smaller collar around the bit that would follow the surface more closely.
Then if the material was tilted or warped the depth of cut would be consistent.
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