Would like feedback on layed metal with standoffs

[MetalheadRK]

Let me start by saying that I am an out of the box thinker!! My husband is an inside the box thinker. Hence the reason I'm coming to you guys for advise.

I have designed a piece that is going to be 16 gauge cold rolled steel. It will be double layered. I want the pieces to standoff from one another 1 inch to 1.5 inches.
I don't want to weld the standoffs as the piece is two different colors. I seriously do not want to have to tape off and try to paint inside. Pain in the rear.

I was thinking that we could use steel rods, cut them and then use super dooper kick ass glue (which we have) to hold the piece together in several places. Hubby is skeptical of the whole thing.

There are tons of dimensional signs out there. I want this to look nice and finished when someone looks in the middle. (And you know they will)
This is not a new concept, so what do you guys recommend?

Thanks!

MetalheadRK

[djreiswig]

Look at coupling nuts. You could weld them to the front piece and then after painting attach the back piece with screws through the back side. I'm not really confident in super dooper glue, but there are some pretty good epoxies out there. For me a weld seems more permanent.

[MetalheadRK]

Look at coupling nuts. You could weld them to the front piece and then after painting attach the back piece with screws through the back side. I'm not really confident in super dooper glue, but there are some pretty good epoxies out there. For me a weld seems more permanent.

Thank you for the input. I really want something nicer than coupling nuts. I've seen many dimensional signs that have what looks like chrome or aluminum tubing standing off the pieces. That is more the look I'm going for. I just don't know how they get it to hold the pieces together.

[acourtjester]

IMO the super glue has a weakness in that if you paint the parts and then glue the parts together they are held together only by the layer of paint. Why not use 1/4" bolts with nice tubing over them. I drill the holes through both parts to insure the hole locations are aligned the plug weld the bolt to the front part grind and finish the parts and paint (or powder coat).
have the tubes to cover the bolts and assemble all the parts, Slam dunk.

[Scratch]

I weld #10 bolts (IIRC...) on the backs of the front pieces, then drill holes in the back pieces and use nuts to hold them. I cut brake tubing to whatever length I want as a spacer and to hide the threads of the bolts.

I don't do the brake tubing all the time since most of the time, I like a standoff distance of like 1/8"-1/4" but if I'm doing multiple layers, or want a larger distance, I'll use the brake tubing.

[MetalheadRK]

Ok, so obviously I'm a girl.... had never heard of break tubing. Now that I know what it is, it sounds like that will work perfectly. So my next dumb question is, wait for it, how do you get the piece to lay flat if
you have nuts or the end of a bolt sticking out the back?

[Scratch]

Ok, so obviously I'm a girl.... had never heard of break tubing. Now that I know what it is, it sounds like that will work perfectly. So my next dumb question is, wait for it, how do you get the piece to lay flat if
you have nuts or the end of a bolt sticking out the back?

You'll have to have it spaced off the wall as well. Just enough to make space for the hardware.
If you need it flat on the wall, my method won't work.

I don't think the sooper dooper glue on the standoffs would work. Even if you had like 10 standoffs that were maybe 1/8" thick, there would only be 10 dots of sooper dooper glue holding the front piece on. I think eventually it would fail.

I'm always looking for other ideas on how to attach multi layers since I love layering multiple painted pieces, so I hope someone will post up an idea that will work for you.

[scn64]

You could try something like this???

I drew this up quick to give you an idea of options. A pan head should minimize the material sticking out from the back side or you could experiment using a countersunk hole and flat head fastener instead ( material thickness may dictate if countersinking would work)

[tnbndr]

Google weld nuts, they come in all sizes and lengths. Weld to back or front piece, whatever trips your trigger. I sometimes like to use stainless bolts with the head showing on the front for accent.

https://www.grainger.com/product/1LAC4? ... 21224030:s

[Tautog13]

Sex bolt(s) May also be an option.....w/proper hollow tube to control desired “standoff”.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ ... e_nuts.jpg

[acourtjester]

"Sex Bolts" I just had to Google that, well look there it true. your never to old to learn something new Thanks
https://www.fastenright.com/products/ge ... arrel-nuts

[WyoGreen]

I've always known those as binding posts, so the sex bolts threw me for loop. (and brought up strange images in my mind ) Just goes to show you can learn something new every day!

Steve

[Tautog13]

Thanks guys....after re-reading what I wrote.......it now also brings other strange thoughts to my mind too.

[Black Forest]

To me it would depend on how you want to mount the piece to the wall. If it will stand off from the wall then it is easier to accomplish what you want. If it needs to be flat on the wall so therefore no nuts or bolt heads on the back then you need another solution. It will also depend on how big the piece will be and how much weight is involved. If it would go flat on the wall with no standoff then you could have your standoffs drilled and tapped with right and left hand threads. Weld a left hand threaded stub to back piece and right hand threaded stub to front piece. Then just use a pair of water pumps along with a copper shim to avoid marring the standoff and tighten. You will have to work your way around each nut as you won't be able to tighten each nut all the way separately. In my mind that would be the strongest and flattest solution. I have a full machine shop so it is easy for me to make the nuts and the left hand threads.

[jlansaw]

For a simple two layered 16ga. sign I've used rare earth magnets to hold the layers together. They work great. Come in all different sizes and shapes. Fairly cheap. I cut key hole notches in the back layer for hanging so it mounts flat against the wall. Epoxy the magnets in place. No welding. Fast and easy.

20171029_124317.jpg

Jeff

[MetalheadRK]

All great information! I will have my husband (hehe) sit down and read all of this. Will let you know what we come up with.

Thanks to everyone!

[Largemouthlou]

You could try something like this???

I drew this up quick to give you an idea of options. A pan head should minimize the material sticking out from the back side or you could experiment using a countersunk hole and flat head fastener instead ( material thickness may dictate if countersinking would work)

You can counter sink back hole and use a tapered head flat head bolt and it will be flush with the back

[SegoMan DeSigns]

Do a Google for stand offs and or spacers, they come in plastic or metal. I have done the countersink and used a flat head screw painted to match the layer or used a SS truss or button head for a rivet look..