cnc routing

[OTHill]

This should probably be posted elsewhere but here goes anyway .My son in law is interested in CNC routing as in plywood work bench parts cedar signs etc.Where to start? Drawing software? Build it yourself or factory built? Probably needs to be 4'x8'.What type of work holding? Anyone build there own vac table? Any help appreciated.Thanks.

[Dingo745]

Done all of it. CNC Routing relies a lot on having a nice rigid machine with good components and zero backlash.
I used Corel Draw for design a lot .
Probably CNC zone would be be good start or one of the many Woodworker Forums, they all have CNC sections, just start googling

[acourtjester]

On the software section there are many and some are expensive, ArtCam is one I have looked at and they sell modules so you can start small and grow.
If you are just doing inlays and basic 2D type and some simple 3D type you can use a drawing program like Inkscape. and then just import the SheetCam and do your routing. It is just about choosing the right post processor and setting up the tools.
There are plenty of you tube videos of people doing all types of wood routing from simple shape cutting of parts all the way to wonderful carved artwork.

[WyoGreen]

I started out with CNC routing. I did a lot of research, even bought a table plan. I ended up building my own out of scrap metal I had laying around. Came up with my own drive system, and built my own controller. In the process I learned a bunch about how all the various parts work. I still have that table, and mostly use it now for routing signs. I fitted a laser to it and use that for burning designs into plaques. I have fitted it with markers and used it as a plotter for making posters. The possibilities are endless once you get thinking about it.

Anyway, I started out using CamBam as my software. It's a Cad/Cam software, which means you can design the project and convert it to g-code for the table all in one program. It's not that great for art type designs. I still use it for the router table, and also find it's good for trouble shooting and cleaning up dxf files. For my plasma table I use either Coreldraw or Inkscape. Inkscape is free, so is a great way to start out.

For work holding I use clamps to hold the material to the table. Sometimes I even use screws to hold the material to the spoil board, but make sure you don't try to route thru a screw, that could be a little hard on the router bit.

Like others have mentioned, go to some of the wood working sites and read thru their CNC forums.

Good luck, Steve

[OTHill]

Thanks all that gives me a start.

[Joe Jones]

I route with a Samson 510 CNC plasma table, and also with a PlasmaCam, using DesignEdge software.
No, the table is NOT designed for routing, but that is just because the company has dug their heels in, crossed their arms and declared, "We build PLASMA tables!"

Well, here is what I have to say about that ...

http://flic.kr/s/aHskHT5FVE

[sphurley]

I built my first cnc router with parts from www.cncrouterparts.com (go figure)
As others have said there is some difference in the design. You will have mechanical loading from the bit cutting against the material and you don't have in plasma cutting. The router (or really think spindle) will weigh more than a torch so the gantry tends to be heavier than a plasma system.
Routing systems are noisier by a lot. Cutting projects will take longer to cut. Sawdust collection will be a must.
If you really want a vacuum table across a 4x8, you will need some big $$ for the pump and the electricity to run it. (this from a commercial table http://www.machinerymax.com/Listing/Det ... acuum-Pump)
You will have some form of a sacrifice board that needs to be surfaced flat. T-slot rails cut into it or just screw down your projects to get started.
The system will not need to have the 300+ IPM that a plasma table needs but it will need HP to push it thru the material.
For software look at www.vectric.com, not cheap but look and the base programs and most can be upgraded. They have a whole QandA page to help.
If you don't have the room for a full 4x8 table some of the software has "stitching" so you can cut a larger part on a smaller table by sliding it down.
I started with a router and after my third set of bearings I moved to a water cooled spindle and will never go back.

Steve

[tcaudle]

One of the more popular routing programs for making signs and carving some interesting designs is VCarve Pro. It will use a V Bit to do sloped sided cuts. The same company makes a package called Cut 3D that will not design in 3D but you can setup and cut out a canned design. They also have a higher end package called Aspire. Its got all of the stuff you need to do decorative signmaking. Just to give it context: Vetric is a company started several years ago buy the top two programmers from ArtCAM. A full seat of ARTCAM used to cost about 7,000. It would do just about anything you wanted but the cost was steep and the learning curve long and high. I have played with both ArtCAM and Aspire and Aspire is a lot easier to learn and use. Unlike a CAD program it will import lots of file formats and several 3D formats.
I though I want to do decorative routing when I built my first table but between the long hours doing the design and the long hours watching it cut it made me realize that I could make the same amount of money for a steel cutout that took 15 minutes (30 if you count the design time) and a carved piece that tool hours. Had to go where the money was at the time. You can get started in routing pretty cheap (if your table supports it) .

I still have several routers in the shop but they are used for aluminum and fiberglass. Never seem to have time to sit down and do the drawings and cut files to do what I can see in my head!

[OTHill]

Hey that's all good info. I'm still all sold on CNC plasma. Just love it especially your Cand cnc Tom. My son in law likes to work with wood and that's ok to. Every man to his own likes.

[tcaudle]

Your electronics can be adapted to routing in minutes. Biggest issue is the routing surface (spoil board) and how to get it level in all directions . Swap out the torch for a router . plug the router into the A outlet (AUX AC) and load a simple MACH router Profile. You can play with 2.5 D designs (straight sided cuts to a depth) using SheetCAM. Just don't forget to clean up the sawdust before you switch back to plasma and start making sparks! If your Son-in-law adapts to that setup pretty easy then consider investing in a more complex CAM program that can do some artsy stuff. Watch out or he will see videos about 4 and 5 axis carving machines....then you are talking some serious bucks!

[OTHill]

Anyone aquainted with Laguna router tables? Can you really cut 3/4" plywood at 400 in. a minute?? I find some really bad reviews about them and some good. Don't know what to believe.

[Joe Jones]

You already know the answer to that question . I don't know who told you that a Laguna table or any router table for that matter can cut three-quarter plywood at 400 in./min. That would require some serious horse power and the Laguna table can't possibly accomplish that .

[motoguy]

Biggest issue is the routing surface (spoil board) and how to get it level in all directions

I'm curious if anyone has suggestions on how to tame this particular beast. If the board (or box) sits on the slats, it'll need leveling every time before use, as the slat shapes (dross welded on) constantly changes. I'd be up for building a vacuum table, if I can figure out how to make the beast flat. Ran across a vinyl guy today who was ecstatic to learn I have a 6x12 CNC table. He has been shopping for a 4x8, but can't justify the expense. He sent a sample of the composite aluminum (aluminum on the sides, some kind of plastic sandwiched in the middle) sign material for me to practice on.

I've already to the table, the software, the router, the router mount, etc. I just need to figure out how to deal with the surface/flatness issue on a spoilboard or vacuum table.

[tnbndr]

I just need to figure out how to deal with the surface/flatness issue on a spoilboard or vacuum table.

The sides of the LDR table I have are higher than the slats. I was thinking of drilling and tapping the sides and fastening some angle brackets or??? that the plywood base would sit on when converting to routing.

[acourtjester]

When cutting vinyl I use a floating cutter head (Sean P design posted here some time back) you just need to be close to level. The cutter follows the surface.
http://www.plasmaspider.com/viewtopic.p ... er#p134568
If you want to adjust for a flat surface you can attach a dial indicator and select a spot at one corner and set it to zero and zero Z DRO. Then have a G-code to move to each corner and drop to Z zero and see what the indicator shows. That should show where to make adjustments to get it flat.

[steel 35]

My First table was purchased with the understanding it wood be used to make a table for her kitchen I am now working on table number 3, on top of table number 2, I was reminded of the kitchen table while laying out some estate sale 80/20. So I changed table #3 up to the biggest stuff I have 45 x 180. Not sure what all I will Finnish on this table as I am never going to be done with the first two. I think posting a picture in this thread may give a hint. This is what it looks like this morning glad to see these thread's revived.
This summers project will be Her table, My idea is to mount threaded UHMW to the slat braces on the bottom of the water pan #1 then use jacking bolts & hold down bolts pretty sure I will get it done this way quicker then finishing table #3.

Toy Table.JPG

[BanksAg]

Biggest issue is the routing surface (spoil board) and how to get it level in all directions

I'm curious if anyone has suggestions on how to tame this particular beast. If the board (or box) sits on the slats, it'll need leveling every time before use, as the slat shapes (dross welded on) constantly changes. I'd be up for building a vacuum table, if I can figure out how to make the beast flat. Ran across a vinyl guy today who was ecstatic to learn I have a 6x12 CNC table. He has been shopping for a 4x8, but can't justify the expense. He sent a sample of the composite aluminum (aluminum on the sides, some kind of plastic sandwiched in the middle) sign material for me to practice on.

I've already to the table, the software, the router, the router mount, etc. I just need to figure out how to deal with the surface/flatness issue on a spoilboard or vacuum table.

Check out what ArcLight does: https://arclightcnc.com/table-options/cnc-router/. They have bars that get bolted to the frame above the slats, then recommend laying a 3/4" sheet of plywood on top of the bars. They make the transition look really easy in their video. If I didn't already have a dedicated CNC router this addition would definitely be on my wishlist.

[motoguy]

I was thinking of something like that last night. On my Starlab machine, the top of my water table is even with the top of the slats. Well, the slats are probably higher in places, now. Here's the construction of the Starlab:



I was thinking of a way to bridge from one side of the water table to another. I'm currently thinking of taking angle iron, and cutting slots so that it will sit across the table (recessed into the water table sides), "pointy side up". Cutting equal depth slots in all the pieces should give me a reasonably level and solid cross bed on which to set a vacuum box (or spoil board). I may need to put supports midway on the angle. With 7.5" of clearance to the bottom of the gantry, I should have room for this. The angle could even be recessed such that it's only 1/4" or so above the slats, which would be minimal Z travel loss.

[suttoncnc]

by tcaudle » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:06 pm
Your electronics can be adapted to routing in minutes. Biggest issue is the routing surface (spoil board) and how to get it level in all directions . Swap out the torch for a router . plug the router into the A outlet (AUX AC) and load a simple MACH router Profile. You can play with 2.5 D designs (straight sided cuts to a depth) using SheetCAM. Just don't forget to clean up the sawdust before you switch back to plasma and start making sparks! If your Son-in-law adapts to that setup pretty easy then consider investing in a more complex CAM program that can do some artsy stuff. Watch out or he will see videos about 4 and 5 axis carving machines....then you are talking some serious bucks!

I use Tom's controller and I switch back and forth in a few minutes no issues. At first my machine was a router only with a vacuum table. Then, when I wanted to plasma cut also, I gutted my controls and installed CandCNC electronics. When running in plasma mode, I put a thermal barrier (5/16" cement board) on top of my vacuum table top and then a burn surface. I side draft when running plasma and this arrangement works well. Conversion from one op to the other takes about 15 minutes. Search my old post and you can get many details of how I made all this work. If you have any questions you can PM me and I will be glad to answer any specific questions.

Scott