I am fairly sure I have a job similar to the project below. It will be 4x4 with painted 14 gauge steel over 14 gauge stainless steel. I have a few questions I need help with please.
If I prime, paint and clear coat the back as well as the front, will there be any problems with corrosion from the dissimilar metals or will all the paint work as a good enough insulator? This is an inside piece.
What do you think will be the best way to attach the two pieces? I was thinking of glue/epoxy and/or weld a small channel onto the top and bottom of the outer piece to help support the stainless.
Finally, what do you think is a fair price for a project like this? I will have material prices on Tuesday, but I am not sure what to charge for my labor. The biggest piece I have done has been 24 X 24. This is twice as big.
I appreciate any advice.
Thanks, Mark
Steel on stainless
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Steel on stainless
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Mark
Hypertherm PM 45
Delusional Designs 4x4 CNC
Millermatic 211 welder
Hypertherm PM 45
Delusional Designs 4x4 CNC
Millermatic 211 welder
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Re: Steel on stainless
What does the back have to look like?
To weld the two, you have to use Stainless filler metal, or it will be very weak.
For me personally, I'd weld a few studs to the back of the MS, make holes in SS corresponding to those studs, and use nuts to fasten. if a little 3D is wanted, even a washer or two could give some depth to the pieces.
Otherwise, it would be a few plug welds, and a lot of taping to paint afterwards...
To weld the two, you have to use Stainless filler metal, or it will be very weak.
For me personally, I'd weld a few studs to the back of the MS, make holes in SS corresponding to those studs, and use nuts to fasten. if a little 3D is wanted, even a washer or two could give some depth to the pieces.
Otherwise, it would be a few plug welds, and a lot of taping to paint afterwards...
- tnbndr
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Re: Steel on stainless
Search "3M Tape" in these forums. It is used to successfully to attach multiple layers.
With the top piece painted I don't think you will have an issue with reactivity between the metals.
With the top piece painted I don't think you will have an issue with reactivity between the metals.
Dennis
LDR 4x8, Scribe, DTHCIV
Hypertherm PM45, Macair Dryer
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LDR 4x8, Scribe, DTHCIV
Hypertherm PM45, Macair Dryer
DeVilbiss Air America 6.5HP, 80Gal., 175psi, Two Stage
16.9scfm@100psi, 16.0scfm@175psi
Miller 215 MultiMatic
RW 390E Slip Roll (Powered)
AutoCAD, SheetCAM, Mach 3
http://ikescreations.com
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Re: Steel on stainless
The 3m UHB tape will work, but it would look nicer if you used stainless button head allens, and just made a matching set of holes in the backer and the front piece. You could go all the way around the outside, say 1/2" in from the edge, maybe 4 fasteners across each face, would look sharp I think. As stated above, you could use a nut in between layers, or washers and a nut etc to stand the back off if needed. This way, you could also cut some keyhole slots for hanging it in the backer, stand it off 1 /4", and it's all good.
Shane
Shane
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Re: Steel on stainless
Thanks. I usually use a nut between layers but customer does not want the space between layers. I think I will put SS mounting bolts through both layers as suggested.
Do you think I will have any issues with the steel and stainless separated only by layers of paint?
Mark
Do you think I will have any issues with the steel and stainless separated only by layers of paint?
Mark
Mark
Hypertherm PM 45
Delusional Designs 4x4 CNC
Millermatic 211 welder
Hypertherm PM 45
Delusional Designs 4x4 CNC
Millermatic 211 welder
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- 2 Star Member
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- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:42 pm
- Location: Eastern Wa
Re: Steel on stainless
No, there shouldn't be a problem. Even 3M tape will leave a gap.