Dual Purpose Router Table

[Capstone]

UPDATE:

Here's all of the hardware installed.

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Now that this is done, I'm struggling to find a SheetCAM post Processor to use for this setup to send over to MACH 3. I get how to create tool paths, and since this is a single outline operation with a single bit, it seems pretty basic, but I would really appreciate some advice on which post processor to use in SheetCAM DEV for a basic 2D solid outline cutting operation.

TIA

Phil

[acourtjester]

I have used the very basic "mach 3" no extensions all you need to do is move the router do delays or other fancy things.
I just turn on the router at the start and do all the routing then turn it off manually same with dust removal.
I run the router bit to the top of the material and zero the Z the cut operation will know to move the bit down each pass.
One thing is in the last pass leave tabs so the material don't fly out at the end of cutting if you are cutting all the way through the material.

[Capstone]

Thanks Jester. I'm constantly overthinking some of this stuff. I appreciate hearing other peoples XP. I'm just trying to not ruin anything.

[Capstone]

So I have attained a level of cut quality and precision that far exceeds my expectations. The possibilities for the use of my machine pretty much tripled from just metal to plastics and wood as well.

I am almost giddy. I've dialed it in now to cut .18 abs plastic accurately and cleanly to within .02 tolerance without adjusting the tool size, which is a simple software adjustment to the software. Now that I have already fabricated the primary mechanism, it's a simple matter of tooling and experimentation before I can start on thin Aluminum and of course wood.

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My head is swimming with ideas again, which is good. Just need to keep heading towards the next island.

[acourtjester]

It is great to see thing work out and open new worlds I have not done very much wood or plastic routing. But having the that option working on my table leaves that open so I can go there. I have looked a ArtCam as a software package and may buy it later they have it set up in a modular scheme. Buy the basic for $150 and add other modules as you need or want as you advance. This is for the more advanced routing on the art side, standard plaques and signs do not need that level and that is where I am now.

have fun
Tom

[suttoncnc]

Having started in router and ran that way for 3 years before migrating to plasma I can say for sure that the learning curve for router operations is WAY bigger than for plasma ops. That said, learning about which cutting tools to use/ feed speeds, depth of cut per pass, climb cutting, RPMs, finishing passes, tabs, etc, etc, etc, for every type of material that you will eventually learn to cut well. I thought that I would never dial aluminum cutting it, but now it is my material of choice. So many things depend on your specific machine and its characteristics of rigidity, mass, acceleration speed, and top speed with acceptable torque. Keep pounding away and you will be amazed at what you will eventually learn to do with it. At this point, I routinely cut aluminum, industrial plastics like delrin, polycarbonate, acrylic, wood, and composite materials. I also have a vinyl cutting attachment that allows me to make high detail vinyl signs and stickers. I have made a circuit board attachment that allows the CNC machine to precision drill PCB boards with .025 drill bits. And, with the help of this site now a very good plasma cutting machine. Your imagination is your only limit now.

Have fun,
Scott

[WyoGreen]

I originally started out with a CNC router table, which I built myself, and then went on to CNC plasma table, so I have both tables now. I took Jesters dust shoe idea above and built my 3rd generation dust shoe based on it. The new shoe is fixed in place and does not go up and down with the router, per Jesters's idea. The big thing in dust collection is to keep the air velocity high, so I reasoned that the shoe should have the same cubic inches as my vacuum hose does. My vacuum hose is 2" dia., so that works out to around 3 cubic inches. I built an extension with an area of 3 cubic inches, and an opening around the router bit of 3 cubic inches top and bottom. The router Colette is about an inch in diameter, so that cuts down the air flow in the top some, and I'm running the dust shoe 1/4 inch or so above the work, so that restricts the bottom some, so I should end up with about 3 cubic inches of opening around the bit for air flow. It works great, and I have good vision pretty much all around the cutting area. My next idea is to replace the Aluminum nose piece with a clear plastic one so I can see what the bit is doing even better. (Maybe). It looks pretty strange I'll admit, but in tests I've had no dust escaping it.

Here's a picture of my prototype, now I just need to make it look "pretty".

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[acourtjester]

cool it is great to see how an idea can be expanded on to show optional designs.
One other thing is the design has a high velocity of air sounding the bit to help with cooling too.

[Capstone]

So, I completed the maiden voyage with the new routing capability and it was a huge success. I would appreciate some pricing advice here if you have time.

I have now tripled my capabilities. I'm am now versed in .18in ABS. That's what I used for this parts job for a spoiler kit I just completed. I took prototypes from the customer, that he hand produced, which I then imported using pictures, measuring and inkscape to convert into cutable files and then created the comprehensive two-part SheetCAM operation to pre-drill hold down holes and a custom hold-down jig using MDF to speed up production time, repeatability and accuracy. Everything went pretty smooth, with only 2 broke bits and a couple of pieces out of the 40 total that were lost as the result of operator errors. I'm excited about new revenue streams.

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Thanks again for all of the helpful advice.

Phil

[motoguy]

My machine ran as a router for 3 years before making it a dual operation router/plasma cutter. A few observations about my experience with over 1000 hours of production between the to ops:

You sound like the guy to ask. I'm all about making a vacuum table to use for routing. My Z has 7.5" of travel, so I should be ok there. However...what is your method of leveling the spoil board/vacuum table on top of jagged plasma-cut slats?

[acourtjester]

Me having a simple approach if your slats are removable why not get a few new ones to swap out when you want to put the spoil board on.
You would not need a full set as they are just for the support of the larger board on top.

[hsolve]

Good morning gents.
In sheetcam the pocketing tool can be used to mill flat the spoil board after it has been cut up or for leveling. Just create a job in pocketing to mill the entire surface, select a tool that will overlap each cut, set your speed and walk away .

[WyoGreen]

On my routing table, I leveled the spoil board the way hsolve just recommended. One other thing I did was route v grooves every inch all over the spoil board. It helps me line things up, and shows the maximum cutting area of my router table.

A thought popped into my head for those making a dual purpose table. How about mounting a couple of rails on the sides of the table above the level of the slats. Then you could slide your spoil board on those rails and be ready to go without worrying about the build-up of slag on the slats.

Steve

[tinrooftodd]

I purchased my table with an extra z-axis router option. After adding a water pan I finally decided on the best way (for me anyway) to switch back and forth between the two. I removed the water pan from the table frame by sliding the pan onto an old section of roller conveyor (two pieces set side by side) and made a pair of "skates" that set down on the frame. The height of the wheels is approx. 1/2 inch above the frame rails. After the skates are set onto the frame, the water pan just rolls back onto the frame. The water pan still sits flat but if there is some variation then the DTHC takes care of that. When I want to use as a router, I just drain the pan, set up the conveyor and roll the pan out of the way. I place a 5'x5' piece of MDF on the now empty frame, clamp it to the frame, and have my spoil board for routing. If engraving wood, plexi, MDF, etc., I always make a fly cut to level out the spoil board. If making through cuts, you can skip the fly cut. Switching from plasma to router takes about 20 minutes, the majority of that time being draining the water pan. I have used this system for about 4 years now and it works great. I have just finished extending my machine to 8' and need to add an extra pair of skates for the added length, but that should be no problem.

[suttoncnc]

You sound like the guy to ask

Well, I am using the opposite setup. My router sacrificial surface remains permanently attached to the machine. It is milled flat with a 1" router bit about once per year. I cut all the parts about .005 more than the actual part depth so the table gradually needs to be resurfaced or I will loose the ability to vacuum hold down my material.

The burn surface goes ON TOP of that surface. I first lay down a thermal barrier of concrete board, then the sheet metal pan that the slats are welded to. This is connected to a side draft duct arrangement that removes smoke and heat from the material. I get zero detectable smoke in my shop when plasma cutting.

90% of my work involves routing. I mostly rout aluminum parts that I use in machine building. I also routinely make parts from polycarbonate, acrylic, delrin and a few other industrial grade plastics. Vacuum hold-down is a MUST in my opinion when routing parts from sheet stock.

[steel 35]

On my routing table, I leveled the spoil board the way hsolve just recommended. One other thing I did was route v grooves every inch all over the spoil board. It helps me line things up, and shows the maximum cutting area of my router table.

A thought popped into my head for those making a dual purpose table. How about mounting a couple of rails on the sides of the table above the level of the slats. Then you could slide your spoil board on those rails and be ready to go without worrying about the build-up of slag on the slats.

Steve

Such a great Idea I think I will see what a mess it makes soon

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[OTHill]

I would like to see more info on DIY hold down vac.for router tables please.